We didn’t know what to expect.
The COVID travel restrictions had just lifted in France, and after months of longing for the countryside, Parisians were ready to get out of the city. Genet, my wife, had found a hotel online; a reasonably priced fairytale 17th-century château – there are dozens of them around Paris – in Etoges, a small village in the heart of Champagne. The website showed a magnificent estate, halfway between Reims and Troyes, surrounded by a moat, a 17-acre wooded park, and a medieval hamlet. I had never heard of the village and thought it might be too good to be true.
After a two-hour drive, we passed the château’s iron gates, and our expectations were surpassed. A tree-lined driveway led to a grand entrance with a sweeping marble staircase, large rooms with high ceilings, antique Louis XIII furniture, and Aubusson tapestries. Genet was instantly in love.
It was too late to head to Reims for dinner, so we took a chance on the hotel restaurant, which was offering a refined menu of game and local sparkling wines. The reception informed us we were in luck; a table was available.
The restaurant, housed in the former stables, was breathtaking—golden chandeliers, large windows overlooking the park, and a roaring stone fireplace. As we sat down, I noticed “local champagnes” on the menu. We were in Champagne, so I assumed they referred to the many prestigious houses nearby. But the Maître d’ explained that the tiny hamlet, with a population of just 440, was home to eight family-owned champagne producers, and the bottles that night came from right across the street.
The first course arrived: hare torte paired with Borel-Lucas Blanc de Noir. The wine was exceptional—balanced acidity, minerality, golden with subtle pink hues, and delicate bubbles. Fruity on the nose, with raspberry, cherry, a hint of brioche, and subtle spice and earthiness in the mouth, it perfectly complemented the gamey savory meat pie. With each sip, we could taste the vintner’s attention to details and love for his wine. We had stumbled upon a hidden gem!